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Chinese health 中医保健 >>
Family health medicine 家庭
2012年09月14日
Perm hair learned
Chinese academy of medical sciences researcher at the institute of medicinal plants GuoJia
Sources: health
Marcel and hair color is change their image of the commonly used method. Why does hair will string and bending? Color why change? This from the hair of chemical structure.
Hair can withstand the 12 tons of weight
Human hair and other mammals hair are made by layers of death of keratinocytes. In this horniness cells filled with Angle protein formation of big fiber bundle. Angle protein spiral long chain molecules is by 18 amino acids, including content rich cysteine on the strength of the hair play a decisive role. For the hair of the microscopic analysis can see, four winding into spiral Angle protein molecular fibrillate, 11 fibrils entwined form like cable same micro fiber, the amount of the uncertain multiple micro fiber arrangement together form large fiber, tiny melanin particles located in between fiber. A man about 120000 hairs. A hair can bear the weight of 100 grams, the hair can withstand the 12 tons of weight.
Permanent damage hair mesh structure
In the hair, Angle protein long chain molecule contains a lot of cysteine residue, each cysteine residue are with a sulfhydryl. In the hair interior, because in the adjacent Angle protein long chain molecules formed between the sulfhydryl the disulfide bond, thousands of disulfide bond make the hair with three-dimensional network structure. The three-dimensional network structure is hair maintain a specific shape and high strength of reason.
Thioglycolic acid is a kind of reductant. When mercaptoacetic acid and disulfide bond part happen reduction reaction, disulfide bond open generating two sulfhydryl. Due to the disulfide bond disappear, in by external effect, hair fiber beam and fiber bundle to each other can free to slide. Therefore, whether alkaline marcel water, neutral marcel water or acid marcel water, the effective drug ingredients must be thioglycolic acid or other with reduction of sulfur compounds. When need to straight hair irons into crimp shape, in the barber to give or have a permanent wave water daub on the hair, disulfide bond part happen reduction reaction generating two sulfhydryl. When the hair curled in hair curler, due to the shape of the hair change, in the fiber bundle happened between mobile make originally the adjacent thiol is no longer adjacent, but with other parts of the sulfhydryl adjacent. Then, when the barber after heating styling hair daub containing hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate finalize the design liquid medicine, because of the adjacent sulfhydryl oxidation generating disulfide bond, in the adjacent fiber bundle and between the formation of a new three-dimensional network structure, then the hair becomes a new crimp shape. When need to curly hair irons into straight hair, the barber no longer use hair curler, only need to put the curly hair straight ironing will do.
Hair color must first bleaching and dyeing
Melanin is make the person's skin and hair color is natural polymer pigment. Melanin is divided into normal melanin and abnormal melanin two types. The color of the normal melanin from brown to black changes; The color of the abnormal melanin from ginger yellow or golden changes to red. A person the color of the hair is by two hair melanin content and proportion of the decision.
Hair coloring process is divided into two steps. The first step is to need to bleach my hair, also is to remove the melanin hair. In alkaline conditions, melanin is easy to happen oxidation decomposition reaction. In the ammonia hydroxide alkaline conditions, the hair surface layer open, into the hair in the hydrogen peroxide and the melanin oxidation reaction. The melanin oxidation decomposition product leaching off, the hair is to present a white. The second step is dyed. Stain the main component is a synthetic oxidation dye need color source compounds, hydrogen peroxide and ammonia hydroxide. Oxidation dye color source compound is divided into the success of agent and coupling agent. The success of the commonly used agent is right - phenylene diamine, adjacent - phenylene diamine, etc. In the ammonia hydroxide alkaline conditions, infiltration to the hair interior attraction agent and hydrogen peroxide oxidation reaction. Oxidation reaction generated intermediates and coupling agent combined with generation colored compound. The success of by adjusting agent and coupling agent structure can get hope hair color to.
Because the hair with the success of agent and coupling agent have allergies or carcinogenic effect, so in hair coloring process should pay attention to prevent hair drugs and head skin contact.